Miraculously, the tacos survived the trip; everything was just as good on our kitchen table as inside the tiny, colorful, creative taqueria. Order this to go: The chopped barbacoa (a daily special) was mild, meaty, and blessedly ungreasy. A purple-potato taco—with tart goat’s milk Manchego, sumac crema, and accents of pecan and apricot—had tremendous depth of flavor. But our favorite was a seasonal special, a tomato tostada with gorgeous little red and gold cherry tomatoes, black-bean hummus, charred sweet corn, and a tart relish of black radish and basil leaves on a yellow-corn tortilla—just stupendous (a note to the environmentally minded: much of the corn in the house-made tortillas is heirloom). For dessert? A coconut milk paleta (think creamy popsicle). Pro tip: When you pick up your order, pull up in front, on 12th, not on the side street.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.