A casual, comfortable mash-up of stylish Southern and modern Wild West, this two-story restaurant and bar in the newly renovated Mule Alley may be the best offering to date from Marcus Paslay (Clay Pigeon, Piattello). Order this to go: The deviled eggs strike a deft balance with smoked paprika and sweet-sour bread-and-butter pickles in the mix. Hoppin’ John (a medley of black-eyed peas, tomatoes, and jalapeños) serves as a hearty bed for beautifully grilled trout topped with charred fresh lemon. Smoked bacon, sautéed mushrooms, scallions, and chile powder add depth to the rich grits that cushion big, meaty grilled shrimp. Don’t skip the sides; best are braised mixed greens, perfect with cast iron–baked cornbread. Pro tip: Allow plenty of time to pick up your order, as street traffic is busy, and you’ll have to jockey for parking space in front (curbside not offered).

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.